Hotel Gródek**** history właściciele i fundatorzy

Wandering around Krakow’s Planty Gardens one might hardly notice that once upon a time, defensive walls and moats prevented unwanted guests from entering the city along this stretch. The fortifications were demolished in the years 1810 – 1814 and consequently the question arose of how to develop the now vacant area. The Senate of the Free City of Krakow decided sagely to level the terrain and plant public gardens. The Planty took its name quite aptly from the old Polish term plantowa. The unique combination of a harmonious road system and public park was created, one that encircles the mediaeval Old Town. The Planty assumed the shape of a wide ring whose circumference stretched to about 4 kilometres. Within this belt, some 21 hectares of parkland could be enjoyed.

Between Mikołajska Street and Sienna Street there is an intriguing place that is connected with the history of the ancient Tarnowski family. Gródek is its name. Even though today’s structure bears hardly any resemblance to the one that existed here in the era of Tarnowski, it is certainly worth pausing here for a while.

It is rather difficult today to define the precise moment in time when the first settlements started to appear in the Gródek area. Indeed, the question is liable to remain a mystery as the earlier historical strata from the period preceding the location of Krakow (1257 AD) were nearly totally destroyed by later developments. Certain traces that were discovered and researched may indicate that the area was inhabited from at least the close of the 11th century. We are however sure that the plan of the city’s location (realized following the invasion of the Tartars in the year 1241) was adjusted to the existing structures, including ones that existed in Gródek. The first unquestionable historic data come from the years 1311 – 1312 - the time of the mutiny of the German burghers of Krakow against King Władysław Łokietek (Ladislas the Short, also known as Ladislas the Elbow-High).

It is believed that a large, brick-and-stone house existed on this spot. This belonged to Albert, the mayor of Krakow and leader of the mutiny. The King, having suppressed the revolt, took cruel revenge. Albert’s seat was demolished and the disloyal burghers were dragged by horse hither and thither through the streets of the city. Finally they were relieved by the hangman’s noose. Such was the ill fate of those who - due to their German origin - were unable to correctly pronounce the admittedly rather tricky Polish words: soczewica, koło, miele młyn.

Following these dramatic events a small castle was constructed on the site of the mayor’s house. The King’s soldiers were stationed there and the place was called “łokietkowy gródek” (“the Elbow-High’s burg”). Two city gates: Rzeźnicza Gate, as well as the gate closing Mikołajska Street, were incorporated into that fortification. The chronicles of the nearby convent of the Dominican Nuns explain its name. According to the chronicles, “the place was called Gródek, because once there was a gród (burg) and the rulings of the court of justice of Krakow were held there”. Most likely this refers to the period after the year 1340, when the further presence of the King’s troops was no longer necessary. Thereafter, the place was taken over by the starosta grodzki, that is by the sheriff of the city of Krakow. The exact time when the structures at Gródek lost their original function is still however a matter of dispute.

Another noteworthy part of the area of Gródek is the Rzeźnicza gate. In mediaeval times there were 8 gates in the city wall. It is generally known today that the splendid Floriańska gate (built in 1307) is the only remaining one. However, the Rzeźnicza gate or “porta Carnificium” was older, being constructed in the year 1289. Its name originated from the guild of butchers who were obliged to man and defend it during times of sieges. Why is the Rzeźnicza gate a rather mysterious one? Most likely it is so because it did not serve its original purpose for a long time. Following the mutiny the gate was incorporated into the castle that was constructed by the King. Later it became a part of the Tarnowski family residence, which in turn was rebuilt in the 17th century. Since then, and until the present day, the former gate has remained as a part of the Dominican convent. The structure was not fully revealed until as late as the years 1937 – 1938, even though a part that was protruding from the façade of the convent facing the Planty might have suggested the existence of a mediaeval city gate.

Let us return to the history of the Tarnowski family and moreover, to the chapter that relates to the Gródek area. The family came into the possession of Ladislas the Elbow-High’s fortification at the beginning of the 15th century. The family chronicle of the year 1448 tells us that during the inheritance procedure one Jan Feliks of Tarnów was given “the house in Krakow, one that was called Gródek, along with other houses and revenues that belonged to the aforementioned Gródek estate”.

In the year 1475, Gródek and the castellum Tarnoviensium were destroyed by fire. Following that, a completely new building was erected. It has not survived intact - only a few architectural details remain until the present day, such as two portals, some window stonework and a beautiful lavabo, or in another words – a Renaissance washbasin, that is now used as a font in the convent’s church.

Following the death of Jan Feliks (called “Szram , probably because of certain “Scars”), the castellum was inherited in the year 1508 by Jan, who in turn was called „Ciężki” or „Długi” (“John the Heavy” or “John the Long”). Living up to his name, Jan was embroiled in a long trial with Krakow burghers from the year 1511. This regarded buildings surrounding Gródek and the aforementioned revenues that were once sold by his grandfather to one of the citizens of Krakow. Even the King’s decree did not reconcile the adversaries, so the case had to be settled by further mediation. Tarnowski was also in conflict with the city of Krakow itself, as the city built a brewery just beyond the windows of Gródek. The chronicler says that “the owner of those windows” in turn took some plots belonging to the city and built a stable. Again, the King’s commissioners had to rule; they decided to order the demolition of the brewery together with a part of the stable, thus broadening the street.

The destiny of Gródek continued to be associated with the Tarnowski family. Dorota Tarło, the only daughter of Jan “Ciężki” sold Gródek in the year 1527 to her uncle Jan Spytko Tarnowski, the first owner of the famed estate at Dzików in central Poland. Finally, in the year 1621, Anna Lubomirska bought the property from Gabriel Tarnowski and donated it to the Dominican Nuns.

Before that however Gródek became a site of one more historical conflict. In the years 1575 – 1576 Stanisław Tarnowski, the father of Gabriel and castellan of Czechów, was one of the leaders of the party rebelling against the Polish King Stefan Batory. The rebels supported the Habsburg Emperor Maximilian II in his claims to the Polish throne. It is unclear until the present day whether Stanisław was sincerely convinced that Habsburg was a better candidate or whether he was persuaded by the financial arguments of the emperor’s party. Tarnowski gathered troops at his Krakow seat, these consisting mainly of Bohemian and Moravian soldiers. He explained that this was necessary for providing a proper welcome to the coming emperor. Fortunately, the forces loyal to the King did not attempt a military attack so bloodshed was spared. Again mediation proved to be the remedy – Tarnowski led his forces out of Krakow and reconciled with King Batory.

A few decades later, the aforementioned lady Anna Lubomirska, the benefactress of the Dominican Nuns, searched for a proper place for the new convent together with the nuns. Having chosen Gródek they had to overcome one more adversity – Gabriel Tarnowski. The wily nobleman insisted that he would only sell the place under the condition of being granted the high office of starosta of Krakow. This was finally granted in the year 1621; after which the exorbitant price demanded by Tarnowski became the main bone of contention. The initial astronomical sum of 30 000 zloty was reduced to 8 000, but only “after long and bitter negotiations”.

Following necessary rebuilding and conversions, the nunnery was finally ready by the year 1632. The beginning of October 1634 saw the consecration of the nunnery’s church, devoted to Matka Boska Śnieżna (Our Lady of the Snow, who was a patron saint of Christian chivalry fighting the faithless). Both the foundation and the dedication of the church to Our Lady of the Snow are not a matter of coincidence, as Stanisław Lubomirski, son of the founder, was one of the victorious commanders of the Polish forces in the fierce battle of Chocim in the year 1621. [A Turkish army of nearly 100 000 soldiers, intending to cross the River Dniester and invade the Commonwealth of Poland and Lithuania, was completely defeated in spite of the fact that the joint Polish-Cossack troops amounted to only 40 000 men – translator’s note]. The turbulent history of Poland, both in the 17th and 18th centuries [the times of “the deluge”, that is, the Swedish invasion and later the patriotic Confederation of Bar in the years 1768 – 1772, defending Poland from Russian intervention – translator’s note] did not leave the church and the nunnery unharmed. The damaged complex was however always rebuilt. Despite the demolition of the city walls and the filling in of the moats, relics of fortified structures are still visible within the nunnery – the loopholes remain until the present day.

In the façade overlooking the Planty there is yet another architectural detail that deserves our attention – the wall painting of the so called Matka Boska Szwedzka (Our Lady of the Swedes). Tradition has it that in the year 1655, during the Swedish siege of Krakow, one of the main attacks was led towards the Mikołajska Gate and the Dominican nunnery itself. Amidst the rising smoke of the fierce battle, the image of Our Lady suddenly appeared, covering and protecting the nunnery with her outstretched cloak. The terrified Swedes abandoned their positions and fled in awe... The painting depicts Our Lady wearing a crown and her traditional blue cloak – she is held aloft by angels. A Dominican nun and friar are kneeling at her feet in adoration. Scholars say that in reality the oil painting on plaster of the nunnery wall depicts Our Lady of the Rosary with the vigilant St. Katherine and St. Dominic.

Gródek certainly deserves one’s attention. This place, both magical and historic, connected to the ancient Tarnowski family, should be visited whilst on a sojourn in Krakow. Having explored the venerable sites of Wawel, the Cloth Hall and the Basilica of St. Mary, the quieter corners of the city lie in wait …

Author:
Piotr Duma

Translation:
Marta A. Urbańska, Nicholas Hodge

Bibliography:
1. Dworzaczek Włodzimierz, Hetman Jan Tarnowski, Warszawa 1985
2. Dworzaczek Włodzimierz, Leliwici Tarnowscy. Od schyłku XVI wieku do czasów współczesnych, Tarnobrzeg 1996.
3. Dzieje Krakowa, Kraków 1992.
4. Encyklopedia Krakowa, Kraków 2000.
5. Rożek Michał, Przewodnik po zabytkach i kulturze Krakowa, Warszawa- Kraków 2000.
6. Świszczowski Stefan, Krakowski Gródek, Kraków 1977.

send to a Friend print last update: 06 Sep '07